Flintunia - petunias with huge flowers
Petunias never go out of style. They have so long been leaders among colorful flyers that without their flowering it is already impossible to imagine a single garden, balcony or urban flower bed. But despite the status of an almost perfect, richly flowered summer, petunias continue to amaze with variety. And literally every year, new hybrids appear, expanding the already magical assortment. One of the most fashionable novelties is the flilitunium. Huge, elegant, with a ruffled edge gramophone of their flowers seem royally luxurious. And although they have no endurance advantages, it is impossible to resist the giant petunias.
- Flilitunia - the best corrugated hybrids of petunias
- Variety of Flilitunium
- Use in decorative gardening
- Conditions required by frellitunia
- Growing and caring for frillitunia
- Wintering of flilituniums - preservation for breeding and not only
- Pest and Disease Control
- Propagation of Flilitunia
Flilitunia - the best corrugated hybrids of petunias
These are summers, which could be called the exact opposite of another hybrid of petunias - caliberhoa. Indeed, if the “thousand bluebells” have smaller flowers than ordinary petunias, then the frilitunia have much larger flowers. And if caliberhoa is more hardy, then flilitunia is just the opposite. But on this the difference between hybrids is not limited.
Fliltunia (registered trade name frillytunia, refer to the species petunia hybrid) - a variety of hybrid petunias with twice as large flowers. They form atypically dense bushes with large, bright, but simple greens, neat and dense in appearance.
Bushes from strong shoots of flilitunia can reach a height of 40 cm in height. The plant also looks good in an ampel, but does not form luxurious cascades and seems more like a hemisphere or pillow, and it’s better to plant it as an “upright” summer tree, creating amazingly beautiful blooming “balls” .
The main pride of the plant is the huge gramophone flowers. In diameter, funnel-shaped, with a whole corolla and, as a rule, a dark pharynx, inflorescences of flilitunia reach 10 cm. But only the size of the features of the flilitunia are not exhaustive. After all, a beautiful, wide corolla around the edge is decorated with a strong filigree of ruffle: no other letnik has such corrugated varieties. The flowers seem lacy, surprisingly spectacular, like luxurious, elegantly decorated ruffles with filigree.
The color palette of flilituniums is far from being as extensive as that of the petunias themselves, the choice of varieties is still quite limited. Among these newfangled summers, there are white, and pink, and cherry, and purple shades of colors. Moreover, for flilithunias much more characteristic bright, absolute colors, the so-called pure and cold colors, and not unique pastel or watercolor shades.
Flowering of flilitunia always begins in June, even if the sowing of January is not possible, earlier flowering cannot be achieved. But this capricious beauty may bloom later. But on the other hand, the parade of smart gramophone players continues until the first autumn frosts.
Variety of Flilitunium
Varieties of flilituniums differ only in color and there are not so many of them. Given the growing demand for these hybrids, their range is likely to be replenished with every season. On sale you can meet:
- snow-white variety of flintunium "Snowflake F1";
- hot pink, the most popular variety "Butterfly F1";
- pale pink flilitunium "Aphrodite pink F1";
- dark pink grade “Crinoline pink F1”;
- dark red “Crinoline red F1”;
- unusual variety with muted lilac-violet color and almost black pharynx “Express ruby”,
- unique red-wine grade "Burgundy F1";
- rich purple, velvety variety "Carnival F1";
- dark purple-violet, kraplakova "Brazilian Carnival F1".
Depending on the conditions and even the characteristics of the seeds themselves, the color of the flowers in individual varieties may be heterogeneous, with white stains or “strokes”. Sometimes on sale there are sort mixes - white-pink "Inspiration", white-red "Daiquiri", etc.
Use in decorative gardening
In order to achieve such an impressive size of flowers, breeders had to sacrifice a considerable number of practical properties of petunias. Including resistance. Even compared to the most common garden petunias, flilitunias are more sensitive to adverse weather and precipitation. These flyers are afraid of rain and strong winds, getting wet, any unprotected place. And this significantly limits the possibility of their use in the design of the garden.
In open soil, flilitunia is planted only on islet flower beds on terraces or under awnings. She is unusually effective in borders, but instability does not allow to reveal all the talents. The rest of this yearbook is used as a container plant. And in the pot culture, it really will be the most striking of the representatives of petunias on your site.
Flilituniums cannot be used as ampoules in the corners of the house, in places where the roof does not reliably protect plants from the vagaries of the weather. It is as if the frillunites were created for the veranda and terrace, arbors, sheltered recreation areas.
True, such restrictions have their exceptions. While you are in the garden, containers with frellithunia can be put up even on the most open areas, taken out to flower beds, paths, and used in decorative compositions. In order to protect the plant, it will be necessary to take containers in time in bad weather, but as a temporary portable decoration they are inimitable.
Conditions required by frellitunia
For flilitunium, it is worthwhile to select places that are reliably protected from adverse weather, wind, rain and even the slightest drafts. The location for the frillunites must be sunny. Without sufficient lighting, it will be difficult to achieve abundant blooms.
For flilitunia, you need to carefully select the soil. It blooms well only on drained, light in texture and fertile soils. For container flilitunias, universal earth mixtures with neutral characteristics are chosen. For open ground (if you can find a protected place) - loamy or sandy loamy soil with a high content of fertilizers and organic matter.
Growing and caring for frillitunia
Flilituniums are quite specific in cultivation. They need stable humidity, because drought affects flowering very badly. But at the same time they are afraid of waterlogging and damp much more than petunias: any “overflow” for them can be literally the last. Water the plant sparingly, always controlling the degree of drying of the substrate and letting it dry completely in the upper part, but not allowing drying in the average flash.
Fritillin fertilizers are often applied to compensate for the bright flowering and large sizes of inflorescences. The optimal strategy is to apply fertilizers with a high potassium content every 10 days until September. The first top dressing for flilitunia, unlike many flyers, begin to be carried out a week after landing in a permanent place, in the main containers. And the pace of feeding is not slowed down until the end of summer.
Fading inflorescences from bushes are best removed manually. But pinching the shoots of flilitunia is not needed, because the bushes are very compact by nature. But if you want to shorten a branch that is too long, you can safely cut it.
Wintering of flilituniums - preservation for breeding and not only
Like petunias, flilitunias are not naturally annual plants and can be preserved for the winter. They are very afraid of severe cooling, and especially frost. But if you want to save the plant and transfer it to the room in time, you will succeed. At the same time, saved flilitunias can be used as uterine bushes for propagation, and try to make them bloom next year as perennial plants.
The main thing is to dig up the bushes, transfer them from open soil to the pots even before the temperature drops to 0 degrees. Container friltunia are simply transferred to the room. All the aboveground parts of the bushes need to be cut off, and the container itself with the plant should be set in a cool place with a temperature of 5 to 10 degrees Celsius.
Pest and Disease Control
Floritunia in gardens suffer from aphids, gray rot, as well as slugs and snails. It is better to deal with the latter with the help of special traps, but with signs of the appearance of fungal diseases or aphids it is easier to destroy flilitunia and replace it with a new plant than to deal with the problem of insecticides and fungicides.
Propagation of Flilitunia
Like all petunias, flilitunias prefer the seed propagation method. Since this hybrid develops slowly, crops need to be carried out very early, even in winter. The optimal time for flilitunia is considered to be the end of January or the first decade of February, if you want the first flowers to bloom in early June.
Such sowing dates also determine the main problem with the cultivation of flilitunium - the need for additional exposure. Since the plant needs a daylight lasting about 14 hours, you can not do without lamps. If providing the plant with illumination can become a problem, then it’s better to immediately abandon the idea of growing flilitunia and just buy some ready-made copies for review: the flintunia seedlings will appear on the shelves closer to summer.
After enjoying the beauty of the plant, you can remove the bushes into the room with the advent of cold weather, save them as uterine plants until spring and cut the cuttings for propagation. Of course, you can sow in mid-March, but this way your frillitunia will bloom only on the eve of August and all your efforts will be spent just a few weeks of lush flowering.
Sowing seeds is best done in special ready-made universal substrates, light, loose and balanced. For flilitunia, shallow containers and containers with a maximum wall height of 5-6 cm are used. For this plant, drainage holes and measures for disinfection of both soil and sowing containers are very important.
Flilitunium seeds are sown in warm land. Filling the containers with soil, it is poured at the beginning with hot water, then let the substrate stand for a while until medium-warm and laid out with a toothpick or tweezers, literally one seed on a flat surface of moistened soil (flintunium seeds are most often sold pan-coated) .
If you buy simple seeds, mix them with sand and rarely sprinkle. The distance between the seeds is best left immediately significant, from 2 to 3 cm between the seeds. From above, the seeds of flilitunium soil should not be sprinkled. But cover the crops with glass or a transparent film should be required.
Sprout seeds of flilitunium can only at a temperature of about 22 degrees or higher. The container should be ventilated twice a day, slightly opening the glass or film. Immediately after the appearance of the first sprouts, the flutunium containers must be rearranged to the best possible lighting and cover removed.
For flilitunium, daylight hours should last at least 14 hours, so the plant is grown mainly with backlighting lamps (backlight level - 7-8 cm). The regimen for the care of freillitunia is quite specific. Plants do not tolerate drying out of the soil, but do not tolerate waterlogging. Watering is carried out with a syringe, literally under each plant. Due to greater vulnerability to the black leg, spraying for flilithunias is unacceptable even in comparison with ordinary petunias.
Seedlings dive only after releasing a second pair of real leaves. This hybrid of petunias cannot be tolerated too early, in young seedlings the roots are too tender and plants can die even with extreme care. For freilitunia, a double pick is recommended: first, in seedling cassettes or larger containers, and then in individual containers.
After the first transplant, it is advisable to lower the temperature of the flilitunium content to 18 degrees. Leaving should consist of moderate, not allowing watering or drought watering.
In the soil and containers for the terrace, balcony and garden, flintunium can be transferred only after the threat of freezing frost disappears completely in June. Before the leader, the plant needs to be hardened. When planting in containers or soil, the distance between the bushes should still not be closer than 20 cm.
It is impossible to collect seeds from flilitunia on their own. This hybrid from its collection can only be propagated vegetatively, while keeping the uterine bushes cool and well lit indoors until spring and rooting the shoots under a film or cap to get new specimens.