Flower garden: placement of plants in the flower garden, part-1
- Flower garden: placement of plants in the flower garden, part-2
Only constantly observing the plants, and even better - writing down your observations in a diary, after some time you will know exactly which plants and how best to put together the flower garden. For example, regal beauties of lilies are decorative only at the time of flowering. The rest of the time they slowly "fade away." We see the same picture in bells (with the exception of stunted ones). Most varieties of panicled phlox have gradually uncovered lower parts of the stem; gelenium and lichen chalcedony behave in the same way (in addition, both have a tendency to decay the bush). Having determined in practice the advantages and disadvantages of individual crops, you can place plants in the flower garden with the ease of a professional. In particular, you will understand that it is more correct to plant the same lilies and bells in small groups of 5-7 pieces, so that after flowering their "loss" is not so noticeable. The same thing happens with phloxes, while the lower part of the stem is covered with stably decorative plants (astilba, gravilate, incense).
Planning a flower garden.
You can correctly place the selected plants using the plan (we will assume that by this moment we have already decided on the place and size of the flower garden). The length of the mixborder can be arbitrary and quite large, but the width, as a rule, is set from 1.5 to 2.5 m. With a larger width, it becomes more difficult to care for plants located in the middle of the flower garden. If, if necessary, the width of the mixborder increases (becomes more than 3 m), it is necessary to provide for the technological path at the planning stage (from bark, tile laid step by step, etc.).
It’s better to plan on graph paper: it’s easier to scale. I would like to warn against one common mistake - making a plan on a piece of paper, without observing the scale. Believe me, the enormous work of drawing up a plan, transferring it to graph paper, and also to nature will lead to serious errors.
If the flower garden is small in area (10-15 m), it is more convenient to make a plan on a scale of 1: 25 or even 1:10 (this means that 1 cm on the plan corresponds to 25 or 10 cm in kind). With an increase in area, especially with a longer flower garden, you can work on a scale of 1: 50.
After the contour of the future flower garden is determined, you should proceed to the placement of plants, primarily taking into account their height. Of course, you can almost linearly place tall plants in the background, and in front of them just as linearly - medium and low. But the flower garden looks much more interesting if uneven plants are distributed by the so-called oscillating contours. With this arrangement, tall plants can enter the medium-tall zone, and medium-tall plants, in turn, can come to the fore. Moreover, often with a large length of the flower garden, especially if it is located along a curiously curved path, it is nice to place several large plants right in the middle of low plants on a sharp bend, thus closing the perspective.
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Grouping plants by height, it must be remembered that architectural, tall plants with large leaf blades are usually planted singly or in small groups of several pieces. At the same time, some plants, especially those lacking horizontal elements, should not be planted one at a time (for example, mallow, digitalis). In this case, it is necessary to observe the uniform distribution of plants blooming at different times, in order to maintain flowering continuity, so that it does not happen that in the summer the background is filled with flowering plants, and in the fall it is empty.
Placing plants on the middle plan, it is necessary to pay special attention to the "textured" species. The more interesting the shape of the plant, the less often its specimens are planted in the flower garden. And in this case, it is better to plant an odd number of copies (3-5-7, etc.).
Low-growing plants of the front edge are planted in dense groups. In this case, the alternation of crops (repetition) with a given rhythm orders the structure of the flower garden.
To give the mixborder integrity, to combine plants into a single composition, it is recommended to use the principle of rhythmization, i.e. repetition. To do this, you can select one view or group together several types and repeat the group at a certain interval. You can also set the rhythm using color spots (it is better to use plants of low-saturated tones for this).
When placing plants on the plan, number the individual groups, at the same time making a list of plants used. Having received a rough plan, analyze the stability of decorative cultures, the need to decorate them after flowering or during the growing season, and accordingly increase or decrease the groups. Now the draft plan is ready. It would be nice to learn how to make a plan of the flower garden in a perspective view to imagine how correctly the plants are placed in height.
You can graphically place plants on the plan in several ways - there is not much difference between them. German experts place plants on the plan in the form of rectangular geometric shapes. With this graphic expression, the area occupied by the culture is easily calculated. Gertrude Jekyll believed that it is better to place plants in the flower garden in the form of elongated stripes of different sizes. The length and width of the strips depends on the stability of the decorativeness of a particular culture. The more stable the plant, the wider the strip underneath. And vice versa, if a plant loses decorativeness after flowering, a rather narrow and short ribbon is allocated to it. It is customary for us to designate the area allocated for culture in the form of elongated ovals or irregular shapes. Choose the method that is more convenient for you.
Analysis of seasonal decorative flower gardens.
Now you need to analyze the seasonal decorativeness of the flower garden. To do this, they put tracing paper on the already developed plan, outline the flower groups, and paint the groups in accordance with the flowering time. There should be at least three such drawings on tracing paper (for each season): in the spring - conditionally from mid-May to mid-June, summer - from mid-June to mid-August and autumn - from mid-August to late September - early October.
For a detailed analysis, similar plans are drawn for each month. Pondering the resulting picture, we can draw conclusions about the uniform distribution of flowering plants by season, while stable decorative leaves are recommended to be marked with a special symbol.
After analyzing the assortment of perennial flower crops, you can see that there are not so many spring-flowering species, and most of them lose their decorative effect after flowering. This point must be taken into account when placing plants in a mixborder. All crops blooming in spring and in the first half of summer, it is desirable to place in the middle and back of the flower garden (you must take into account the height of plants), and crops of the second half of summer and autumn flowering, on the contrary, as close as possible to the front edge. If this factor is not taken into account, then in the fall, faded plants that have lost their attractiveness will “show off” in the foreground. You can create bright color spots in the spring due to bulbous and small-bulbous crops. It seems to me optimal to place bulbs in technological spaces between perennials - in the form of small groups (3-5 pieces) or ribbons.
Now that we have clarified everything, we can begin the final phase of the plan formation. Usually on the plan, all plants are painted in accordance with their color characteristics, and as if they are blooming at the same time.
Often the question arises of what area should be allocated for a particular culture. We have already talked about some limitations in plant layout. But the general rule is this: the larger the flower garden in area and length, the larger the flower groups consisting of the main plants should be. However, it is believed that even in large mixborders with a large area, the area occupied by individual plants should not exceed 3-5 m2.
Sometimes, in pursuit of the flowering continuity, a large number of species are used. In this case, as a rule, the feeling of the integrity of the flower garden is lost. The use of a large number of species leads to the fact that each crop, due to lack of area, is planted in only a few copies, which ultimately leads to the effect of “vinaigrette”. In a small flower garden (5-6 m2), it is recommended to place no more than 10 species of plants. Moreover, each culture should be represented in such a quantity that it was possible to consider all its advantages. In this case, the rule works: the larger the plant, the smaller it can be represented if there is no particular intention (for example, if the given crop is not leading in the flower garden). And vice versa, the smaller the plant, the more it is planted. For example, in a small flower garden 2-3 peony bushes are enough, at the same time 2-3 primroses will simply be lost in the total mass of plants.
In a larger flower garden (20 m2 or more), the number of species may increase to 20-25 or more. In this case, the use of the principle of rhythmization is mandatory. By placing plants in groups in accordance with the total area of the flower garden, it is easy to observe the principle of contrast, alternating plants with a certain shape of the leaf blade and bush, or, conversely, play on the similarity of the forms of inflorescences, flowers and leaves.
In the course of work on the project, it is necessary to think about how laborious those or other cultures are. The place of their placement in the flower garden largely depends on this indicator. Agree, there are many types that require constant attention and careful care. Among them are a number of crops that need annual planting and digging (for example, dahlias, gladioluses, cannes, hyacinths, some varieties of tulips, tuber begonia), frequent transplants (large-flowered ruffle), garter (dolphinium), winter shelter (roses, knifofiya). Such plants are classified as labor-intensive and try to place in the flower garden so that it is easy to approach them.
Counting the required amount of planting material.
The flower garden project is ready. The final stage is the calculation of the required number of plants. You can use a palette for this. A grid of squares with a side of 1 cm is applied to the tracing paper with ink. The palette is laid on the plan of the flower garden and the number of squares is calculated (first whole, then halves, etc.). Let's say some culture on the plan occupies 20 squares. If the scale of the plan is 1: 25, then the area of the same square in kind (on the site) will be 25 x 25 cm, i.e. 625 cm2. Multiply the resulting figure by the number of squares and get: 625 x 20 = 12,500 cm2 or 1.25 m2.
Knowing the rate of planting of this culture per 1 m2, for example, for astilbe, this number is 6-9 pcs. (depending on height), we get the right number of plants for this area: 6 x 1.25 = 7.5 pieces. Since there are no "one and a half diggers", we round the resulting figure (usually upward) and get 8 plants. Similarly, the number of all plants used in this flower garden is calculated.
Before us is a prepared plan of the flower garden, but it still needs to be transferred to the area.
Transfer the plan to the terrain
To transfer the plan of the flower garden in kind, they use different methods. To begin with, the contour of the flower garden is applied to the area allocated for this with the help of a tape measure, pegs and twine. You can “snap” the flower garden to the fence, the wall of the house, but the track is most often used for this. Using the pegs and twine, the resulting contour of the flower garden is also divided into a grid of squares with a side of 1 m (perhaps in childhood you increased your favorite postcard in this way). The contours of individual plant groups can be applied directly to the soil using sand.
- Bochkova I. Yu. - We create a beautiful flower garden. The principles of plant selection.